India

This morning visit the medieval Jama Mosque followed by a walking tour of Old Delhi, exploring centuries old arts and crafts with artisans belonging to the sixth or seventh generation of the families who first started them. Visit a marvellous old-fashioned shop where you can test Indian perfume (attar) from cut-glass bottles; stroll through the main bridal street of Old Delhi, Kinari Bazaar, with its dazzling display of embroidered silk wedding sarees, beautiful bangles and colourful turbans for the bridegroom. The Khari Baoli is all about spices – here, rice and dal, dry fruits, nuts and saffron dealers have traded for more than 150 years. The smell of the spices will remain with you even after you have left the market. During this walk, if you are lucky you will also be introduced to the art of pigeon flying by a kabootar baz (pigeon fancier). Later in the afternoon explore New Delhi – including Humayun’s Tomb and Qutab Minar and drive past Lutyens’ Delhi. Humayun’s Tomb, another magnificent Mughal building is set in a square enclosed garden. This finely proportioned structure in red sandstone and marble served later as a model for the Taj Mahal. Dominating the ruins of the earliest existing settlement of Delhi is another famous landmark – the Qutab Minar. This imposing victory tower has five storeys, each marked by intricately carved projections or balconies. Elaborately carved pillars embellish the courtyard of a nearby mosque. At the centre of the courtyard is the amazing Iron Pillar (4th-5th century), which has not rusted through the centuries. The interesting buildings of Lutyens’ Delhi are the India Gate, the Rashtrapati Bhawan (President’s House) and Parliament House.

Early this morning you will be taken to the ghats to enjoy a boat ride on the river while watching a spectacular sunrise – a most memorable experience. The riverfront, as seen from a boat at sunrise, is a spiritually uplifting sight. Hinduism, deep and mystical, is everywhere – in a decorated doorway, in a glimpse of a glittering temple, in the sound of a sacred bell and in the chants of the priests. After the boat ride take a brief walking tour of the old town – the lanes and by-lanes are fascinating and the essence of the city. Shops sell rich brocade silks, brassware and also all the articles essential for worship at numerous little shrines. Return to the hotel for breakfast and the rest of the morning is at leisure. In the afternoon you will be driven a short distance outside Varanasi to visit Sarnath, an important centre for Buddhist pilgrims. Having achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya, the Buddha came to Sarnath and gave his first sermon. Later, Ashoka, the great Buddhist Emperor, erected magnificent ‘stupas’ and monasteries here in the 3rd century BC. Sarnath was at its peak when the Chinese traveller Fa Xien visited early in the 5th century AD. In 640 AD, when another Chinese traveller Huien Tsang visited, Sarnath had more than 1500 priests. It was later reduced to insignificance and left in ruins. It was not until 1836, when British archaeologists started excavations, that Sarnath regained some of its past glory.

After an early breakfast begin the 4 hour drive to Orchha, a small town dominated by a series of magnificent 16th and 17th century palaces and temples and one of India’s most marvellous Mughal sites. The deserted royal citadel of Raja Rudra Pratap was the capital of the Bundela kings until 1738. Take a short tour of the palace complex, temples and the fourteen graceful chhatris (cenotaphs) commemorating the Orchha rulers. Afterwards, you will be transferred to the railway station at Jhansi (about a half hour drive) to board the train to Agra. You will be met on arrival and transferred to your hotel. Built in the early 16th century and the capital of mighty Mughals, Agra is famous for its beautiful medieval monuments. It was pampered by the Mughals for more than two centuries — evidence of which is spread all over the city in the form of various structures constructed during their reigns. However, with the fall of the Mughals, Agra became a victim of rebels’ assertion of power and the city suffered a series of plunders by the unruly rebellious forces.

Begin the day with a visit to the milk market where large quantities of milk are procured from individual sellers and then resold to wholesale buyers. Observe the interesting ways by which the buyers judge the purity of milk and negotiate the prices.Afterwards visit Amber Fort; the ancient capital of the erstwhile Jaipur state, this is one of the more fascinating Indian forts. Its construction began in 16th century and it was subsequently added on to by successive rulers. Inside the fort, the places worth visiting are the Palace of Mirrors, inlaid with thousands of tiny glistening mirrors, the hall of Public Audience and the beautiful manicured gardens. Continue on to visit the City Palace, Jantar Mantar (medieval observatory) and drive past Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds). The City Palace is situated in the heart of the city. The whole complex is wonderfully laid out with large courtyards, balconies, cupolas, arched entrances and gardens, which are a combination of Rajput and Mughal architecture. The museum here displays the rich heritage of the Jaipur royal family in miniature paintings, textiles, garments, books and manuscripts, carpets, palanquins and weapons dating back to the 15th century. Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II had a passion for astronomy, which led him to build five astronomical observatories in India at Jaipur, Ujjain, Varanasi, Mathura and Delhi. The observatory at Jaipur, built in 1728, is the largest and best preserved of them. It has a curious collection of sculptures which enable the calculation of many astronomical and astrological events such as eclipses, etc. Built in 1799 the Hawa Mahal or Palace of Winds is one of the landmarks of Jaipur, although it is little more than a façade. A five-storey structure in pink, it was built to enable the women of the harem to see the activities of the outside world without themselves being seen. End the day with a short walking tour of Old Jaipur. The bazaars between the Badi (Large) and Chhoti (Small) Chaupar (Square) offer some of most lively scenes that the city has to offer. You will be taken through the labyrinth of colourful alleys where artisans make puppets, bangles, and other local handicrafts. You will also visit the jewellery market or Johari Bazaar, explore architecturally interesting havelis (mansions), and stop by bangle shops in Maniharon ka Rasta and at the flower sellers market near Choti Chaupar.

Take a Train Safari this morning. A popular excursion, this daily train service takes you from the station at the start of the hill section to the highest station in the Aravallis – the Kambli Ghat station. The one hour ride, through beautiful forests and hills, enables you to interact with the locals, who’ll readily share their seats and make conversation with you. On the drive back from the station take a break for tea and cucumber sandwiches at a tiny Forest Rest House. Afterwards depart Jojawar for the approximately 4-hour drive to Udaipur. Though the entire state of Rajasthan is replete with fantastic hilltop fortresses, exotic fairy tale palaces and gripping legends of medieval chivalry and heroism, no city is quite as romantic as Udaipur. ‘The City of Lakes’, as it is called, has three huge lakes within its limits and a large number of palaces and other monuments worth visiting. It is surrounded by the ancient Aravalli Mountains where wildlife still abounds.

Today is a more relaxed day with a number of activities to choose from: a cooking class; a walk in the countryside; or a miniature painting class.

The cooking class takes place in the informal setting of a family home. Firstly you’ll accompany your hosts to the local market place where fresh vegetables and supplies will be purchased, before returning to the family home to prepare lunch. Follow the instructions of your host carefully, as it is your own lunch you are preparing!

The Morwaniya to Badi Trek: A short drive out of the city brings you to the village of Morwaniya, from where the walk begins. Firstly, head towards the village of Varda, where you will meet with a few villagers, visit their homes and observe their lifestyle. Continue on via another village called Bhramano ka Varda, hiking for approximately an hour and a half through a blend of rugged terrain and hills and agricultural fields to arrive at your destination, Badi Lake. Located in the village of Badi, it was constructed by Maharana Raj Singh I (1652-1680) to counteract the devastating effects of a famine. The lake covers an area of 155 sq kms and has a large embankment, which is graced by three lovely chhatris (pavilions). During the drought of 1973, this lake supplied water to the people of Udaipur. From Badi return to Udaipur in time for lunch.

Take a miniature painting class at Painting House Art School, beautifully located just 5 kilometres from Udaipur in the village of Sisarma, on the banks of Lake Pichola. Classes are given by professional miniature painters and take place in the open air. The school teaches all types of paintings (portraits, love scenes, marriage processions, village scenes, tiger hunting scenes, court scenes, flowers and birds) on different types of surfaces such as silk, marble, hand-made paper and cotton, using natural stone colours and real gold and silver. Learn the basics of miniature painting before attempting one yourself – remember the artists here have trained and honed their skills over many years, so don’t expect to match them with your effort!

The afternoon is free to relax at the hotel, shop or explore the old part of Udaipur.

Begin your tour of Mumbai this morning with a visit to the famous dhobi ghat (washermen colony). Continue on to explore some of the landmarks of the Raj era – visiting the elegant buildings of the Bombay High Court and Victoria Terminus. Afterwards visit the Prince of Wales Museum; a Mumbai landmark, this is one of the best museums in India. You can also visit the house where Gandhi spent much of his time when in Mumbai, which is now a museum, or wander some of the city’s amazing markets, such as Crawford Market and Zaveri (Jewellery) or Chor (Thieves) Bazaars. It’s nice to end the day with a stroll along the spectacular Marine Drive, perhaps winding up at Chowpatty Beach at sunset, an ideal place to sample some of Mumbai’s famous snacks such as Bhel Puri.

Spend today sightseeing with a local guide. A few of the sights and experiences that you might like to cover include: the edifice in marble which is the Victoria Memorial – commissioned for the British Queen’s 1901 diamond jubilee and completed some 20 years later; Park Street Cemetery, which is a warren of grand mausoleums amid heavy undergrowth; the Marble Palace, which somehow manages to make all of Kolkata’s other grand structures seem staid and under-stated; the Jain Temples in North Kolkata, which combine marble inlay work, mirrored hallways, statues and a constant stream of worshippers; and the temples dedicated to Kali (patron goddess of Kolkata) on the banks of the Hooghly River – your guide will be able to advise whether there are likely to be goat sacrifices taking place at the time of your visit. The choice of where to be when this ‘act of devotion’ takes place is then up to you!

The Sundarbans National Park is bestowed with abundance of flora and fauna. After an early breakfast commence a full day game cruise and birding tour to the Netidhopani and Dobanki watchtowers. The tiger watchtower and the ruins of a 400-year-old temple are the main attractions of Netidhopani. If you are lucky you may see Bengal tigers from this watchtower. The Dobanki WatchTower is famous for its Canopy Walk. This more than half kilometre long walkway, at a height of 6 metres from the ground, is covered in grill and strong net in the form of a canopy to protect from the wildlife. It takes you deep into the forest where you could find yourself walking alongside any number of mammals, including tigers – a very thrilling experience. Lunch will be served on board your boat. Return to camp early evening.

Arrive at New Jaipalguri this morning and transfer to the famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, also known as the ‘Toy Train’ for the all day journey to Darjeeling. Built between 1879 and 1881, the railway is about 78 kilometres long. Its elevation level varies from about 100 metres at New Jalpaiguri to about 2,200 metres at Darjeeling. A popular tourist destination, Darjeeling was established by the British in the mid-19th century, with the setting up of a sanatorium and a military depot; it subsequently became Bengal’s summer capital. Much of its Raj era splendour is still to be seen – in contrast to its Tibetan, Nepali and Bengali character.

Depart Darjeeling this morning for the 3-hour drive to Gangtok, the capital of the Himalayan state of Sikkim. A bustling, friendly hill station, with a diverse population of indigenous Sikkimese and people of Nepalese and Tibetan ancestry, Gangtok is famed for its spectacular mountain vistas. Check in to your hotel on arrival and remainder of the day at leisure. The town’s main street, MG Marg, is pedestrianized and a pleasant place for a wander, and the winding side alleys hide some unexpected gems.

Leaving Sikkim, make the 2-hour journey to Kalimpong, known for its spectacular views and its horticulture (particularly its wide array of orchids and gladioli). Check in to your hotel on arrival and afterwards take in some of the town’s sights, including the Dello Hills, Dr Graham’s Home, a small factory making paper by traditional methods, and flower nurseries. Dello Hill, at a height of 1,914 metres and only 6 kilometres away from Kalimpong, is a pleasant drive through lovely landscapes and offers a splendid view of Kanchenjunga. Dr Graham’s Home, spreads over an area of 200 hectares; it includes cottages, a school, hospital, workshop, farm, and bakery – all looking after the needs of more than 1,500 students. The campus is noted as a “miniature town” and is self-sufficient enough to produce and provide its own food, clothing and lodging.

Kaziranga National Park contains the vast majority of the world population of the Indian one-horned rhinoceroses, as well as large populations of elephant, water buffalo, swamp deer, hog deer, sambar, wild boar, Hoolock gibbons, pythons and around 300 species of birds, including the rare Bengal florican. It also boasts the highest density of tigers in India (however the dense vegetation here can make them hard to spot). Take a guided safari into the park this morning by jeep or by elephant (the best way to get close to the rhinos is atop an elephant).

Day free on the plantation. There are a number of activities on offer here. An obvious choice is to take a tour of tea gardens, tea worker colonies, and tea processing factory, followed by a tea tasting session. If you are feeling energetic you may like to go kayaking or horseback riding. (The owners of the Bungalow have a stable of over a dozen superb thoroughbreds). Alternatively, you can visit the historical Ahom monuments at Sibsagar or the World War II cemetery at Digboi. Given the number of activities and the lovely setting of the accommodation, a three night stay here is well worthwhile.